What to eat: Jollof rice and pepe is a permanent feature of every menu, holding pride of place in the hearts of Nigerians. Jollof is typically made in one pot with long-grain rice and spices, often including the extremely hot chilli known as “pepe.” Foodies Hot & Spicy restaurant on Admiralty Way in the Lekki suburb, near the business district of Victoria Island, serves nice jollof, which is even better with their roasted turkey. You can order online, takeaway or sit in and eat for 8,000 naira ($5) a plate.

Books: When growing up, I immersed myself in the literary works of Nigerian authors Wole Soyinka and Chinua Achebe, but my two favourite books are light reading. “Nearly All The Men in Lagos Are Mad” is a 2021 collection of short stories by Damilare Kuku exploring relationships in the melting pot that is Lagos, and “Becoming Nigerian: A Guide” by Elnathan John is a humorous look at how power in Nigeria operates in politics, business, religious institutions and in homes. Two well-stocked bookstores I enjoy are Roving Heights in Victoria Island and in Surulere on the mainland.

Ordering online: One of the beauties of living in Lagos is the ease with which you can order and pay for anything from food to fashion online. When ordering food, OyaNow is among the best apps. I love informal dressing, especially T-shirts, and I recently bought some decent ones on Hingees.com for 9,000 naira ($6) apiece.

Big cars: The “Ogas” (“bosses”, including politicians and business executives) of Lagos can be spotted by their big cars, especially Mercedes-Benz G-Wagons and Toyota Land Cruisers. In tow are security convoys with ear-splitting sirens and often limited obedience of traffic laws. Decades of cheap gasoline made it easy for Nigerians, the rich and middle class, to own fuel-guzzling cars, and the gradual removal of the petrol subsidy since 2023 has not changed the habit. In Lagos, petrol costs as low as 925 naira a litre ($0.60, or about $2.30 a gallon.)

Afrobeat: Whether I’m in a bar, restaurant, market, or roadside eatery that sells “suya” (grilled meat), there is no escaping the Afrobeat sound. Nigerian music artists like Burna Boy, Wizkid, Davido, Tems and Tiwa Savage have enjoyed global success in recent years as proponents of the Afrobeat sound. I stream most of my music, but Classic 97.3 FM also has a great music selection. “Rush,” by young musician Ayra Starr, is one of my favourites.

Communicating: Nigerian Pidgin, an English-based creole language, is widely spoken in Lagos and across Nigeria. In many respects, it showcases the creativity of Nigerians. Some common words and phrases include “wahala” (trouble), “abeg” (please) and “Wetin dey happen” (What’s going on?). On a Friday, when most employees head home from the business district, you are likely to hear a security guard asking for money: “Anything for the boy?” to which you can say, “I dry well well” (I have nothing).

Out and about: From private beaches to lagoonside cafes, art galleries to nature reserves, Lagos caters to many tastes. Lagosians take partying seriously, and, at night, partygoers flock to beachside hangouts, jazz clubs or Irish pubs. Victoria Island is the centre of entertainment for visitors and is easily accessible by Uber or Bolt. Delis Cafe, The Flowershop Cafe or Art Cafe are great spots to meet for coffee. For $8 or less, you can get a cappuccino and piece of chocolate cake, my favourite. If you love outdoors and live bands, Bature Brewery is a nice pick. It has craft beer and delicious pub grub; the pulled pork pizza is a good choice.

Escaping: To get away from the frenetic pace of Lagos city, I usually go to Jara Beach Resort, some 50 km (30 miles) from Victoria Island. It is private and clean. For 40,000 naira ($26) you can get a five-hour day pass that includes lunch and drinks, including cocktails! You will need a car, though, which means navigating the traffic along the Epe Expressway. Jara also offers a pick-up and drop-off service.

What’s annoying: Lagos is hot and humid most of the year, and the pollution level is twice the World Health Organisation’s annual air quality guideline. The combination can be choking. Wear light clothing, drink lots of water and look out for places with functional air conditioners or big fans.